If you’ve ever searched for the best eyelash growth serum, you’ll know there are hundreds of products promising longer, thicker and fuller-looking lashes.

But what many people don’t realise is that not all lash serums work in the same way.

Some eyelash serums contain prostaglandins or prostaglandin-like ingredients, which can influence the natural lash growth cycle. Others are prostaglandin-free and instead use ingredients such as peptides, growth factors and conditioning ingredients to support stronger, healthier-looking lashes.

Then there is bimatoprost  a prescription medicine you may have heard about in connection with Latisse or Lumigan.

So, do eyelash growth serums actually work? What are prostaglandins? What are the possible side effects? And how do you know which lash serum is right for you?

Let’s simplify the science.

How Do Eyelashes Grow?

Just like the hair on your head, every eyelash goes through a natural growth cycle.

Your lashes grow for a period of time, eventually stop growing and then naturally fall out. A new lash then begins the process again.

One way of achieving longer-looking lashes is to encourage the lash to remain in its growth phase for longer.

Put simply, if an eyelash has more time to grow before it naturally sheds, it has the opportunity to become longer and more noticeable.

This is where prostaglandins become interesting.

What Are Prostaglandins in Lash Serums?

The connection between prostaglandins and longer eyelashes was actually discovered through eye medicine rather than the beauty industry.

Prostaglandin-related medicines are used by eye specialists to lower pressure inside the eye in conditions such as glaucoma.

Doctors noticed an interesting side effect in some patients using these medicines: their eyelashes were becoming longer, thicker and darker.

This led to greater interest in the effect prostaglandins could have on the eyelash growth cycle.

Today, some cosmetic eyelash serums contain prostaglandin analogues or derivatives designed to produce a lash-enhancing effect.

However, there is an important difference between a cosmetic lash serum containing a prostaglandin-related ingredient and a prescription medicine such as bimatoprost.

What Is Bimatoprost?

Bimatoprost is a prescription-only medicine used in eye care.

In the UK, bimatoprost is licensed for reducing raised pressure inside the eye in adults with conditions such as open-angle glaucoma and ocular hypertension.

One of its recognised effects is increased eyelash growth.

This is essentially how the link between bimatoprost and longer lashes became so well known.

Bimatoprost can influence the natural eyelash growth cycle, allowing lashes to become longer, thicker and darker.

However, a prescription eye medicine and a cosmetic eyelash serum are not the same thing.

What Is Latisse?

If you have searched online for a prescription eyelash growth serum, you may have come across Latisse.

Latisse contains bimatoprost and was developed specifically for inadequate or insufficient eyelashes, known medically as eyelash hypotrichosis.

It is particularly well known in the United States, which is why it appears so frequently in online discussions about eyelash growth.

However, Latisse is not licensed as an eyelash-growth medicine in the UK.

This is an important distinction when reading information or recommendations online, as products and medicines available in other countries are not necessarily licensed for the same purpose in the UK.

What Is Lumigan?

Lumigan also contains bimatoprost.

In the UK, Lumigan is a prescription-only eye medicine used to reduce raised pressure inside the eye in conditions such as glaucoma and ocular hypertension.

Increased eyelash growth is a recognised effect of bimatoprost, but Lumigan is not licensed in the UK as a cosmetic eyelash-growth treatment.

It should therefore not be treated as a DIY alternative to a cosmetic lash serum simply because it can make eyelashes grow.

If you are interested in whether a prescription treatment may be appropriate for you, this should be discussed with an appropriately qualified medical prescriber.

Are Prostaglandin Lash Serums Safe?

This is probably the most important part of the conversation.

Prostaglandin-related ingredients can produce noticeable changes to eyelashes because they have a biological effect on the lash growth cycle.

But ingredients capable of producing an effect can also have potential unwanted effects.

Depending on the particular ingredient and formulation, possible concerns associated with prostaglandin-related products and medicines used around the eyes can include:

• redness or irritation

• itching or sensitivity

• dry or uncomfortable eyes

• darkening of the skin around the lash line

• pigmentation changes

• changes to the tissues surrounding the eye

This does not mean that everyone using a prostaglandin-containing lash product will experience side effects.

It does mean that it is worth understanding what is actually in your lash serum rather than assuming that every eyelash serum works in the same way.

Can Lash Serums Cause Fat Loss Around the Eyes?

This is one of the most talked-about concerns surrounding prostaglandin lash serums.

You may have seen people online describing their eyes as looking more “hollow” after using certain products.

There is some medical science behind this concern.

Prostaglandin medicines used around the eyes have been associated with changes to the tissues surrounding the eye. These changes are collectively known as prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy, or PAP.

One possible change involves the fat around the eye, which can make the upper eyelid area appear deeper or more hollow.

However, it is important to keep this in perspective.

Much of the medical evidence comes from prescription prostaglandin medicines used to treat eye conditions. We cannot automatically assume that every cosmetic prostaglandin lash serum will produce the same effects.

It is nevertheless something worth being aware of when deciding which type of lash serum you would prefer to use.

Can Lash Serums Change Your Eye Colour?

This is another question frequently asked about prostaglandins and eyelash growth serums.

Increased pigmentation of the iris  the coloured part of the eye is a recognised potential effect of bimatoprost and some other prostaglandin eye medicines.

This does not mean that every cosmetic lash serum will change your eye colour.

The particular ingredient, formulation and exposure to the eye all matter.

But once again, it highlights why it is important to understand what you are applying so close to your eyes.

What Is a Prostaglandin-Free Lash Serum?

You don't have to use a prostaglandin-related ingredient to support fuller and healthier-looking lashes.

There is now a growing category of prostaglandin-free eyelash serums.

Rather than using prostaglandin-related ingredients, these products may contain ingredients such as:

• peptides

• amino acids

• panthenol

• hyaluronic acid

• growth-factor technology

• conditioning ingredients

These formulas take a different approach, generally focusing on supporting the condition, strength and appearance of your natural lashes.

This can be particularly appealing if you want to enhance your lashes but would prefer to avoid prostaglandin-related ingredients.

Which Eyelash Growth Serum Should I Choose?

At Villa Skincare, we stock different types of lash-enhancing products because there isn't necessarily one formula that will suit everybody.

Understanding how the different options work can make choosing a lash serum much easier.

Amalian Lashes

A prostaglandin-based approach

 

Amalian Lashes contains a prostaglandin derivative designed to help enhance natural eyelashes.

With consistent use, it aims to help lashes appear longer, thicker and darker.

Amalian is a good example of why looking at the ingredients behind a lash serum matters. If you are considering a prostaglandin-based product, it is useful to understand both why this type of ingredient may produce noticeable results and the potential considerations associated with prostaglandins.

Shop Amalian Lashes at Villa Skincare

Obagi Nu-Cil Eyelash Enhancing Serum

For visibly fuller, thicker-looking lashes

Obagi Nu-Cil Eyelash Enhancing Serum is specifically formulated for lashes that appear sparse, thin or less defined.

It features Obagi's NouriPlex® technology, a blend developed to support the appearance of healthier, fuller and more defined lashes.

Nu-Cil is particularly relevant when discussing prostaglandin lash serums because its formulation contains dehydrolatanoprost, a prostaglandin analogue.

This means Nu-Cil isn't simply a conditioning serum. Its formulation includes an ingredient designed to influence the lash growth cycle, alongside ingredients that help condition and support the lashes.

With consistent use, the aim is for natural lashes to appear thicker, fuller and more defined.

As with other prostaglandin-containing lash products, I think it is important to understand both the potential benefits and the considerations associated with this type of ingredient before deciding whether it is right for you.

Shop Obagi Nu-Cil Eyelash Enhancing Serum at Villa Skincare

DP Dermaceuticals EXO-GROW Lash & Brow Serum

A prostaglandin-free option

 

If you are specifically searching for a prostaglandin-free lash serum, DP Dermaceuticals EXO-GROW takes a different approach.

Rather than relying on prostaglandins, the formula uses advanced peptide technology alongside ingredients designed to support the appearance of fuller, healthier-looking lashes and brows.

Its formula includes Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, a peptide commonly used in lash-enhancing formulations.

This makes EXO-GROW particularly interesting for someone who wants to support the appearance and condition of their lashes while specifically choosing to avoid prostaglandin-related ingredients.

Shop DP Dermaceuticals EXO-GROW Lash & Brow Serum at Villa Skincare

AQ Skin Solutions Lash & Brow Enhancement System

A growth-factor-focused approach

AQ Skin Solutions takes another approach to lash enhancement.

The brand is particularly known for its growth-factor technology, and its Lash & Brow Enhancement System has been developed to support the appearance of fuller, healthier-looking lashes and brows.

It is a useful example of how lash enhancement doesn't have to rely on one particular type of technology.

For someone interested in a different approach to traditional prostaglandin-based lash products, a formula using growth factors and supporting ingredients may be worth considering.

Shop AQ Skin Solutions Lash & Brow Enhancement System at Villa Skincare

Prostaglandin vs Prostaglandin-Free Lash Serum: Which Is Better?

There isn't a simple winner.

A better question is:

Which type of eyelash serum is most appropriate for you?

If your priority is supporting the condition, strength and appearance of your existing lashes, you may prefer to explore a prostaglandin-free peptide or growth-factor-based formula.

If you are looking for a product that more directly influences the lash growth cycle, you may be considering a prostaglandin-containing lash serum.

And if you are interested in prescription bimatoprost for eyelash growth, this is a different category altogether and should involve an appropriate medical assessment.

Your eye health, medical history, sensitivity and any previous reactions to lash products should also be considered.

How Long Does an Eyelash Growth Serum Take to Work?

Whichever type of lash serum you choose, don't expect an overnight transformation.

Eyelashes have their own natural growth cycle, so lash serums generally need to be used consistently over a period of weeks before changes become noticeable.

The exact time will depend on the product, its ingredients and your own natural lashes.

Always follow the instructions for the individual product rather than applying more in an attempt to speed up your results.

More product does not necessarily mean faster or better lash growth — particularly when you are applying something so close to the eyes.

What Happens If You Stop Using an Eyelash Serum?

An eyelash growth serum does not permanently change your natural lashes.

Your eyelashes will continue to go through their normal cycle of growth and shedding.

If a product has been helping to enhance the appearance of your lashes and you stop using it, the effect will generally reduce over time as those lashes naturally shed and are replaced.

This is why consistency is important with most lash-enhancing products.

Dr Ahmed's Take

Eyelash serums are a perfect example of why I always encourage people to look beyond the marketing and understand the ingredients.

When you see impressive before-and-after photographs from an eyelash growth serum, there is one useful question to ask:

What is actually making those eyelashes grow?

Is the product using a prostaglandin-related ingredient that can influence the natural lash growth cycle?

Is it a prostaglandin-free formulation using peptides or growth-factor technology to support the condition and appearance of the lashes?

Or are you considering a prescription medicine such as bimatoprost?

These are very different approaches.

That doesn't make one automatically good and another bad. It simply means that you can make a much more informed decision when you understand how a product works, what you can realistically expect from it and what potential side effects need to be considered.

For me, the best eyelash serum isn't necessarily the one promising the longest lashes.

It's the one that is most appropriate for you.

Unsure Which Lash Serum Is Best for You?

With prostaglandin lash serums, prostaglandin-free formulas and prescription options all being discussed online, choosing an eyelash growth product can understandably feel confusing.

If you're unsure which lash serum is right for you — or whether a prescription option may be appropriate — book a consultation with Dr Ahmed at Villa Skincare.

We can discuss your goals, relevant medical and eye history, previous lash products and the different options available to help you make an informed choice.

You can also explore our range of lash and brow products at Villa Skincare.

Dr Ahmed
Aesthetic Doctor & Founder, Villa Skincare
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